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What form of punctuation should precede even when it replaces and in a series?

People brought a strange variety of foods to the potluck. The dishes included green bean cookies, grasshopper tacos, durian pudding ( , ) ( — ) ( ; ) even emu casserole.

(Sorry if the example sentence is a bit lackluster; I made it up on the fly.)

Which punctuation is suitable before even: a comma, an "em" dash, a semicolon?

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The comma is the most natural in the context of a series.

However, if one wants more contrast/emphasis, the em-dash is better.

The semi-colon doesn't work well here.

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