What form of punctuation should precede even when it replaces and in a series?
People brought a strange variety of foods to the potluck. The dishes included green bean cookies, grasshopper tacos, durian pudding ( , ) ( — ) ( ; ) even emu casserole.
(Sorry if the example sentence is a bit lackluster; I made it up on the fly.)
Which punctuation is suitable before even: a comma, an "em" dash, a semicolon?