Context (New York Times),
Today, sampling the cuisine can be a rarefied and pricey experience; meals at Michelin-starred kaiseki restaurants like Kikunoi (kikunoi.jp/english) run upward of $160 a person. But for an unbuttoned — and surprisingly affordable — take on kaiseki, try Giro Giro Hitoshina...
At first, I thought take here is used as a noun, which is from its verb sense -- as you know, when take is used as a verb, it can be paired up with certain foods, drinks, etc., for example, take a drink, take a meal. But it seems take also has the sense of, see American Heritage Dictionary of the English Language,
7.Slang An attempt or a try: He got the answer on the third take.
Do you think that take means try in this context?